The History of Goldwork Embroidery: From Ancient Civilisations to European Mastery
Goldwork embroidery is not only a luxurious and beautiful art form, it is steeped in history – a symbol of wealth, power and artistic excellence for thousands of years. Historically, practised using real gold threads and known for its use of intricate techniques, let’s explore the history and origins of goldwork.
Origins of Goldwork Embroidery
Goldwork embroidery, like many art forms, has evolved over time to include more contemporary techniques but it has its roots deep in the ancient world – influenced by and connecting many cultures across many continents including Asia, the Middle East and Europe. Early silk traders would bring their wares from Asia along the now famous silk route through several regions reaching as far as Beirut, (this is documented from as early as the Han Dynasty approx. 114BC) bringing with them not only beautiful fabrics but gold threads and embroidery techniques. The exchange of skills and knowledge would help to establish goldwork across several continents.
As time moved on, gold embroidery became increasingly widespread and noted in historical texts (including the bible where cloth of gold is mentioned in the Book of Exodus) highlighting the importance of goldwork in religious and ceremonial life.
Goldwork in Ancient Civilisations
Gold and goldwork have been embraced by many ancient civilisations. For example in Ancient Egypt – Archaeologists discovered gold-embroidered textiles in the tombs of pharaohs.
In what is now the Middle East and Eastern Europe, we know the Babylonians, Greeks and Persians wore ceremonial garments adorned with Goldwork, and the clothes worn by elite members of society featured Goldwork embroidery too.
The Chinese and Japanese produced gold-embroidered robes for imperial use which were highly sophisticated and created with incredible artistic skill.
Gold as a Symbol of Wealth and Power
Throughout history gold has been the symbol of wealth, authority and used to indicate senior representatives of religious organisations. From religious vestments, garments of Royalty, or for ceremonial robes and clothing, Gold embroidery embodied the importance and prestige of the person adorned with it. The more elaborate the embroidery, the higher the status of the wearer.
Opus Anglicanum, and the Middle Ages
Goldwork embroidery really came into its own during the Middle ages, particularly in England where it became known as ‘Opus Anglicanum’ (Latin for “English work.”) Between the 12th and 14th century, Opus Anglicanum was very highly regarded across Europe and considered the finest needlework of its time.
Combining luxurious gold threads, silk embroidery and fabulous craftsmanship, this really is one of the most important chapters of the history of goldwork.
How Early Gold Threads Were Made
Early goldwork threads were created entirely by hand and by using real gold. Unlike our modern threads, made mainly by machine using gold leaf, metallised polyester ribbon or metal filament (depending on the thread) – historically goldwork artisans would hammer gold into thin sheets, cut it into fine strips and wrap it around a core material. The core material initially would have been human or animal hair, but due to the softness and brittleness of pure gold, more flexible materials such as silk, Animal gut, paper or parchment then came into use.